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On display

Brooch in a knot motif

1940 - 1950

Clips and brooches in the 1940s were often inflated to enormous size to compensate for the scarcity of precious gemstones, and took the form of large gold scrolls, buckles, fans and rosettes. The ribbon bow was perhaps the favourite motif, of formal or informal design, often fretted in lace, or tulle-like patterns, and usually decorated at the centre with a gem-set cluster or knot. Its typical plastic three-dimensionality distinguishes it at first sight from all nineteenth century, early twentieth century and art deco bows. The most expensive examples were entirely pavé-set with precious gemstones. Similar in conception to the bow brooches were ornaments designed as drapes of pleated material tied with gem-set ribbons or twisted in a spiral. (bron: Understanding jewellery)

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